The textural motif against an airy muslin fabric is the definition of the heritage Jamdani cloth. Traditionally woven on a handloom, the motifs are woven by the discontinuous weft technique through which the threads necessary for the design appear only there in order to maintain the transparency of the muslin. The weaver uses a hand tool made of horn, called a kandul, to lift individual warp threads to introduce the supplementary threads. Prized for its lightness, a textile’s value could also emerge from how delicately its threads had been spun, how gently the spindles were unfurled to create the warp, and how carefully its thin warp fibres had been threaded through the interlocking heddles of the loom. Jamdani muslin is special to modern days Bangladesh and West Bengal in India, where a wide variety of geometric and repeat patterns are woven, as well as the traditional floral and figured designs.
Jamdani was greatly favoured by Mughal royalty in the 16th and 17th centuries. Master weavers would bring gifts of the rare diaphanous fabric, carrying it through the streets in cases of gilded bamboo, before presenting it to the Emperor. It is said that on one occasion, the Emperor Aurangzeb reprimanded his daughter for not being adequately clothed. The princess replied indignantly that she was wearing seven ‘jamas’ or garments. So fine was the Jamdani fabric of her dress, that it was still transparent.
The Dhaka muslin industry was lost during the 1900s and Jamdani weaving is all that remains, yet Jamdani saris remain the finest and most sought after in the world. With a combination of muted or vibrant colours, Jamdani is getting popular again - seen in both saris and contemporary dresses. The finished garments are highly breathable.
The Jamdani sari is a symbol of identity, dignity and self-recognition and provides wearers with a sense of cultural identity and social cohesion. The weavers develop an occupational identity and take great pride in their heritage. They enjoy social recognition and are highly respected for their skills. A few master weavers are recognised as bearers of the traditional Jamdani motifs and weaving techniques, who also transmit the knowledge and skills to disciples. However, Jamdani weaving is principally passed down within families in home workshops. Weavers, together with spinners, dyers, loom-dressers and other supporting practitioners made up of both men and women, form a closely-knit community to maintain the weaving practice.
In the mid 20th Century, many weavers from Bangladesh migrated to India and created variations of Jamdani which are more easily contemporise. West Bengal based enterprise, It takes a week to prepare and dye yarns with natural dyes. One to two metres of fabric is woven per day on each loom. Once woven, it takes a week to wash and finish.
"We strive to create a recognition for this beautiful craft to bestow value onto ordinary lives of these artisans with extraordinary skills. Jamdani being a really customizable technique, we are collaborating with designers around the world to bring in their cultural exposure to these traditional motifs to create modern contemporary ideas,"
Quite unique in their subtlety and beauty, Jamdani fabrics are extremely labour and time intensive. It can take two craftsmen months to weave a small quantity of the delicately figured cloth. Jamdani is a 100% natural and biodegradable fabric. It is particularly eco-friendly because it is hand-woven without the use of electricity. It is a craft so special and so rare it has been declared by UNESCO to be important to humanity’s cultural heritage and in need of preservation.
